3D Printing

TSAS currently has two 3D printers: a Printrbot Play and a Prusa i3 port Anet A8, called The Extruder by its builders.

How to Print

1. Earn the 3D Printing Badge, an idea shamelessly stolen from OSU's Edmon Low Creative Studios.
2. Find a model, or make one. We can currently print up to 4" x 4" x 5" models on the PrintrBot. The Extruder will print up to 8" x 8" x 8" when fully operational.
3. Download Cura, an open-source slicing program for 3D printers.
4. Download the PrinterBot settings file here, and load it into Cura. (File> Open profile> Choose config file)
5. Check your file for errors and make sure it fits!
6. Watch it print!
7. Be sure to share your designs and creations in the Gallery!

Printing Rules

1. You may not print objects subject to trademark or copyright law.
2. There is no charge to print original objects (those created by you) or those used for class.
3. Objects created by another artist not used for class cost $1.00 per hour of printing time.
4. No weapons, including blades or firearms (including non-working replicas) may be printed.
5. No object that would violate the student code of conduct may be printed.

Modeling Apps

• Blender
• Sculptris, great for organic designs—begin with a ball of clay, then sculpt away!
• SculptGL, browser tool similar to Sculptris.
• Sketchup Make, great for architecture and mechanical designs.
• OnShape, a website that allows you to create CAD models.

External Links

• Slicers for beginners
• Excellent print troubleshooting guide from Simplify3D
• MorphoSource 3D scans of bones and artifacts!
• Turn Minecraft models into .stl files with Mineways (Cura also does this natively!)

The Extruder

"The Extruder"

The Extruder is a 3D printer that was built by Isaac VonShriltz, Keenan Jones, and Hayden Spitler.

It was built and programmed in Stallings's Computers II class, and is capable of printing in dimensions of 8" x 8" x 8".

Ordering

After searching through the internet trying to find a good price on a printer, we finally settled on this 3D printer, which was purchased for just under $180 shipped.

We decided to purchase this printer because it combined a larger dimension and scale size, with a nice printing quality, for an affordable price. I would highly recommend this printer to anyone interested in 3D printing as a fantastic beginner's printer, yet I would also recommend it to anyone who is interested in 3D printing as a cheap, and useful personal printer.

Assembly

When we received the printer, it came with instruction videos on the assembly of machinery. The videos are

1. Step 1
2. Step 2

Issues

One of the problems that we encountered while building the printer was the calibration and setting of the Y-axis. The system automatically calibrates itself when beginning a print, and can have a calibration set up manually as well. The way we were able to fix the calibration issue was by placing a piece of paper underneath the extruder head, and slowly dropping it until it was almost putting pressure on the paper, and when the paper is able to freely move, with the extruder head as close as possible, remove the paper and set the calibration bumper on the Y-axis to be pressed as far up as possible to the guide-rod and re-calibrate the system.

Another problem we had with the 3D printer was the extruder head of the printer was fairly difficult to load and change filaments due to the extruder case that connected the extruder to the guide-rods. We did print parts to attempt to fix this, but none of the printed parts fitted with the printer.

Thermistor replacement

Broken thermistor replaced with NTC3950.

Marlin table, if necessary. Should be available as thermistor 11.

Marlin configuration here, but custom Marlin firmware Skynet v2 might be different.

Skynet Configuration.h file line 252 changed to read #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11

Solutions

• Auto leveling mod
• Improved cooling fin
• Endstop adjuster mod

Future

OctoPi with multiple printers